pirsensor - Bing 词典网络红外线感应器；红外探头；被动式红外线感应器1.红外线感应器5. 红外线感应器 （PIR Sensor）- 检测移动的热血动物， 如人。6. 振动感应器 （Vibration sensor）， 敲击时触发 (常常因为太敏感， 在 …|2.红外探头...传感与控制产品；德国海曼(Perkinelmer)红外探头(PIR Sensor)产品SHINYEI 神荣：温湿度传... 更多|3.被动式红外线感应器WCS-0030 更应用了 被动式红外线感应器 (PIR Sensor)，当带有热力的物体，如有人进入被监控的区域，感应器便会被触发，大大提高 …|4.红外热能感应器Arduino... ... 声音感应器 Sound Sensor 红外热能感应器 PIR Sensor 三轴加速度感应器 Acceleration Sensor ... |5.感测器红外线动作感测器(PIR Sensor)可以视为是一个输出 (out) 为 1 或 0的开关。PIR Sensor 的GND接到Raspberry Pi 的Pin 6(GND)、POWE…|6.被动式热释电红外传感器慕尼黑上海电子展 ... 光电式手势识别系统 optical gesture control system 被动式热释电红外传感器 PIR sensor ... |7.热释电红外传感器人体热释电红外传感器（PIR SENSOR）是上世纪 80 年代发展起来的一种新型高灵敏度 探测组件。它能以非接触形式检测出人体辐射的 …|更多释义收起释义必应词典应用准确权威无广告下 载 手 机 版 必 应 词 典体 验 P C 版 必 应 词 典Cart is empty
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Motion Sensor Switch 12-24V 8A
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DETECTION:& 5-8M (25-ft), 120&
INPUT: 12V-24VDC
MAX LOAD:&8A
DIMENSIONS: (L)89 X (W)59 X (H)45mm
DELAY TIME:&10-Seconds
WEIGHT: 97g
WORKING TEMP.:&-20 - 60&C
CHANNELS: 1-Channel
WARRANTY:&3-Years
STATIC POWER: Less than 1W
Description
This motion sensor switch is ideal for low voltage LED lighting applications, where you want to control the light from movement.
The PIR sensor is an electronic sensor that measures infrared (IR) light radiating within its 120-degree field of view.
It can detect, sense or activate within 5 to 8 meters or up to 25-feet.
How to use:
The unit needs to mounted within the detection range (5 to 8-meters) and be able to view 120-degrees from the sensor.
There are four mounting holes for each corner that makes it easy to install.
Connection to the PIR switch is made via screw-down terminal blocks for the designated input/output.
The input accepts 12V to 24V and up to 8A.
Once the sensor stops detecting motion for 10-seconds the switch will turn-off.
These switching are often used with LED lighting in applications like closet lighting or areas where you want light to activate by movement.
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LED industry.PIR Motion Sensor Tutorial: 8 Steps (with Pictures)Introduction: PIR Motion Sensor TutorialPyroelectric ("Passive") InfraRed sensors:PIR sensors allow you to sense motion, almost always used to detect whether a human has moved in or out of the sensors range. They are small, inexpensive, low-power, easy to use and don't wear out. For that reason they are commonly found in appliances and gadgets used in homes or businesses. They are often referred to as PIR, "Passive Infrared", "Pyroelectric", or "IR motion" sensors.PIRs are basically made of a
(which you can see above as the round metal can with a rectangular crystal in the center), which can detect levels of infrared radiation. Everything emits some low level radiation, and the hotter something is, the more radiation is emitted. The sensor in a motion detector is actually split in two halves. The reason for that is that we are looking to detect motion (change) not average IR levels. The two halves are wired up so that they cancel each other out. If one half sees more or less IR radiation than the other, the output will swing high or low.Along with the pyroelectic sensor is a bunch of supporting circuitry, resistors and capacitors. It seems that most small hobbyist sensors use the , undoubtedly a very inexpensive chip. This chip takes the output of the sensor and does some minor processing on it to emit a digital output pulse from the analog sensor.For many basic projects or products that need to detect when a person has left or entered the area, or has approached, PIR sensors are great. They are low power and low cost, pretty rugged, have a wide lens range, and are easy to interface with. Note that PIRs won't tell you how many people are around or how close they are to the sensor, the lens is often fixed to a certain sweep and distance (although it can be hacked somewhere) and they are also sometimes set off by house pets. Experimentation is key!Some basic statsThese stats are for the PIR sensor in the Adafruit shop which is very much . Nearly all PIRs will have slightly different specifications, although they all pretty much work the same. If there's a datasheet, you'll want to refer to itSize: RectangularPrice:Output: Digital pulse high (3V) when triggered (motion detected) digital low when idle (no motion detected). Pulse lengths are determined by resistors and capacitors on the PCB and differ from sensor to sensor.Sensitivity range: up to 20 feet (6 meters) 110 degrees x 70 degrees detection rangePower supply: 3.3V - 5V input voltage, (the decoder chip used) (most likely the PIR sensing element used) (equivalent lens used)More links!Step 1: How Does It Work?PIR sensors are more complicated than many of the other sensors explained in these tutorials (like
and ) because there are multiple variables that affect the sensors input and output. To begin explaining how a basic sensor works, we'll use the rather nice diagram below (if anyone knows where it originates plz let me know).The PIR sensor itself has two slots in it, each slot is made of a special material that is sensitive to IR. The lens used here is not really doing much and so we see that the two slots can 'see' out past some distance (basically the sensitivity of the sensor). When the sensor is idle, both slots detect the same amount of IR, the ambient amount radiated from the room or walls or outdoors. When a warm body like a human or animal passes by, it first intercepts one half of the PIR sensor, which causes a positive differential change between the two halves. When the warm body leaves the sensing area, the reverse happens, whereby the sensor generates a negative differential change. These change pulses are what is detected.The PIR sensor itselfThe IR sensor itself is housed in a hermetically sealed metal can to improve noise/temperature/humidity immunity. There is a window made of IR-transmissive material (typically coated silicon since that is very easy to come by) that protects the sensing element. Behind the window are the two balanced sensors.Check out the images for more details:Step 2: Lenses PIR sensors are rather generic and for the most part vary only in price and sensitivity. Most of the real magic happens with the optics. This is a pretty good idea for manufacturing: the PIR sensor and circuitry is fixed and costs a few dollars. The lens costs only a few cents and can change the breadth, range, sensing pattern, very easily.In the diagram above, the lens is just a piece of plastic, but that means that the detection area is just two rectangles. Usually we'd like to have a detection area that is much larger. To do that, we use
such as those found in a camera: they condenses a large area (such as a landscape) into a small one (on film or a CCD sensor). For reasons that will be apparent soon, we would like to make the PIR lenses small and thin and moldable from cheap plastic, even though it may add distortion. For this reason the sensors are actually
(see image below).OK, so now we have a much larger range. However, remember that we actually have two sensors, and more importantly we dont want two really big sensing-area rectangles, but rather a scattering of multiple small areas. So what we do is split up the lens into multiple section, each section of which is a fresnel lens.The different faceting and sub-lenses create a range of detection areas, interleaved with each other. That's why the lens centers in the facets above are 'inconsistent' - every other one points to a different half of the PIR sensing elementStep 3: Connecting to Your PIRMost PIR modules have a 3-pin connection at the side or bottom. The pinout may vary between modules so triple-check the pinout! It's often silkscreened on right next to the connection. One pin will be ground, another will be signal and the final one will be power. Power is usually 3-5VDC input but may be as high as 12V. Sometimes larger modules don't have direct output and instead just operate a relay in which case there is ground, power and the two switch connections.The output of some relays may be 'open collector' - that means it requires a pullup resistor. If you're not getting a variable output be sure to try attaching a 10K pullup between the signal and power pins.An easy way of prototyping with PIR sensors is to connect it to a breadboard since the connection port is 0.1" spacing. Some PIRs come with header on them already, the ones from Adafruit don't as usually the header is useless to plug into a breadboard.By soldering in 0.1" right angle header, a PIR is easily installed into a breadboard!Step 4: Testing Your PIROnce you have your PIR wired up its a good idea to do a simple test to verify that it works the way you expect. This test is also good for range testing. Simply connect 3-4 alkaline batteries (make sure you have more than 3.5VDC out but less than 6V by checking with your multimeter!) and connect ground to the - pin on your PIR. Power goes to the + pin. Then connect a basic red LED (red LEDs have lower forward voltages than green or blue so they work better with only the 3.3v output) and a 220 ohm resistor (any value from 100 ohm to 1.0K ohm will do fine) to the out pin as shown. Of course, the LED and resistor can swap locations as long as the LED is oriented connection and connects between out and groundNow when the PIR detects motion, the output pin will go "high" to 3.3V and light up the LED!Once you have the breadboard wired up, insert batteries and wait 30-60 seconds for the PIR to 'stabilize'. During that time the LED may blink a little. Wait until the LED is off and then move around in front of it, waving a hand, etc, to see the LED light up!Step 5: RetriggeringOnce you have the LED blinking, look on the back of the PIR sensor and make sure that the jumper is placed in the L position as shown below.Now set up the testing board again. You may notice that when connecting up the PIR sensor as above, the LED does not stay on when moving in front of it but actually turns on and off every second or so. That is called "non-retriggering".Now change the jumper so that it is in the H position. If you set up the test, you will notice that now the LED does stay on the entire time that something is moving. That is called "retriggering"For most applications, "retriggering" (jumper in H position) mode is a little nicer. If you need to connect the sensor to something edge-triggered, you'll want to set it to "non-retriggering" (jumper in L position).Step 6: Changing Pulse Time and Timeout LengthThere are two 'timeouts' associated with the PIR sensor. One is the "Tx" timeout: how long the LED is lit after it detects movement. The second is the "Ti" timeout which is how long the LED is guaranteed to be off when there is no movement. These are not easily changed but if you're handy with a soldering iton it is within reason.First, lets take a look at the BISS datasheet again (see image below)Determining R10 and R9 isnt too tough. Unfortunately this PIR sensor below is mislabeled (it looks like they swapped R9 R17). You can trace the pins by looking at the BISS001 datasheet and figuring out what pins they are - R10 connects to pin 3 and R9 connects to pin 7. the capacitors are a little tougher to determine, but you can 'reverse engineer' them from timing the sensor and solving!For the sensor in the Adafruit shop:Tx is = 24576 * R10 * C6 = ~1.2 secondsR10 = 4.7K and C6 = 10nFLikewise,Ti = 24 * R9 * C7 = ~1.2 secondsR9 = 470K and C7 = 0.1uFYou can change the timing by swapping different resistors or capacitors. For a nice tutorial on this, see Step 7: Project ExamplesTesting a PIR sensor for interfacing to Max/MSP for an interactive gardenA home-made security system using PIR sensors (which is built into a Start Trek panel!)PIR sensor + Arduino + Servo = automatic cat door!Step 8: Reading PIR SensorsConnecting PIR sensors to a microcontroller is really simple. The PIR acts as a digital output so all you need to do is listen for the pin to flip high (detected) or low (not detected).Its likely that you'll want reriggering, so be sure to put the jumper in the H position!Power the PIR with 5V and connect ground to ground. Then connect the output to a digital pin. In this example we'll use pin 2.The code is very simple, and is basically just keeps track of whether the input to pin 2 is high or low. It also tracks the state of the pin, so that it prints out a message when motion has started and stopped: /* PIR sensor tester*/int ledPin = 13;
// choose the pin for the LEDint inputPin = 2;
// choose the input pin (for PIR sensor)int pirState = LOW;
// we start, assuming no motion detectedint val = 0;
// variable for reading the pin statusvoid setup() {
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
// declare LED as output
pinMode(inputPin, INPUT);
// declare sensor as input
Serial.begin(9600);}void loop(){
val = digitalRead(inputPin);
// read input value
if (val == HIGH) {
// check if the input is HIGH
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
// turn LED ON
if (pirState == LOW) {
// we have just turned on
Serial.println("Motion detected!");
// We only want to print on the output change, not state
pirState = HIGH;
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn LED OFF
if (pirState == HIGH){
// we have just turned of
Serial.println("Motion ended!");
// We only want to print on the output change, not state
pirState = LOW;
}}Don't forget that there are some times when you don't need a microcontroller. A PIR sensor can be connected to a relay (perhaps with a transistor buffer) without a micro!About This Instructable 673Bio:
All-original DIY electronics kits - Adafruit Industries is a New York City based company that sells kits and parts for original, open source hardware electronics projects ...
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